FJ Owners Club

FJ1100 and FJ1200 for Sale

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Buying a FJ1100 or FJ1200 ?

If you plan to buy an FJ this article goes through all the models and the difference's

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FJ1100 84-85

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FJ1200 1TX 86-87

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FJ1200 3CV 88-90

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FJ1200 3XW/ABS 91-95

Yamaha FJ the Sports Tourer. A basic run down of the models

FJ1100
When the Yamaha FJ1100 came out in 1984 it invented the class ‘Sports Tourer’. The GPz900r had set the standard for the Sports bike by its marginal faster top speed and water cooled engine but to Yamaha it was their flagship sports bike. Due to the FJ’s mile munching capabilities the Sports Tourer was born.
Pre 84 all the Jap bikes were poor handling and this was solely down to poorly designed frames so Yamaha built the frame around the race ‘state of the art’ inspired “Bimota-type” chassis, with its head stock supported in a triangulated design, this gave the FJ its reputation as an ultra stable and safe handling bike.
The 1100 came with a small nose fairing due to its design of being a sports bike (over the years this grew to match its new ‘Touring’ role).
It was designed with 16” wheels the idea taken from GP technology for super quick steering and the largest rear tyre of its day, a 150mm.
The engine was originally 1097ccm (grew to 1188cc for FJ1200) four-in-line engine provided with 16 valves and DOHC. It was a slim engine due to the placement of both the starter and the alternator behind the cylinders.
It also was gear driven from crank to clutch (common for its day was the weaker chain driven system). All to produce a massively powerful 125hp at 9000rpm and 86Nm of torque at 8000rpm engine.Even by today’s standards its well impressive, just look up the 1250 Bandit spec for comparisons.
Another new item copied from the GP bikes was the front fork anti-dive system and ventilated disc’s front and rear. Also it came with Mono Shock suspension and Programmable front forks, all state of the art in its day.

FJ1200, 1TX
The FJ1200 was presented as a true sports tourer. This meant a slight increase in fairing size and with the indicators and mirrors on it ; they were originally fitted on the handle bars.
Another option to suit this role was the addition of a digital clock. One strange modification was that the capacity of the fuel tank decreased from 24.5 litres to 22 litres. Also new was the fitment of a fuel reserve switch and the re-positioning of the choke cable from handle bars to the inner fairing and a flush filler cap to allow the use of tank bags. Grab rails were moved to the side of the tail unit, this allowed you to use the flat area as a place to strap bags etc…

FJ1200 3CV
In 1988 the fairing was enlarged one more time to improve the riders touring comfort and now fitted with an inner pocket.
The front wheel size increased from 16 to 17 inches, the anti-dive-system disappeared, and the front brake discs were changed to larger improved floating discs.
The gravity fed carbs were upgraded to be fed by a fuel pump.

FJ1200 3XW/ABS
Even larger fairing was fitted plus new ‘V’ type head light. The engine was nowrubber mounted to absorb some of the engine vibrations and fitted into a larger (heavier) frame due to the engine not now being a stressed member. Fork lower yoke and swinging arm was manufactured in steel instead of the early models aluminum type, believed to be due to keeping the costs down.
ABS became an option and was fitted as standard.

A basic list of parts that are not interchangeable.
All models
Shocks. Fairings,

84-87 to 88-95
Swinging arms, headlights, wheels, front disc, brake calipers, frame, CDI ignition unit

Conclusion
The FJ1100 and FJ1200 motorcycles are a well deserved classic in the true sense of the word. The reliability, well proven through all these years, no one can question. This is a ‘must’ if looking for an older bike and offers excellent value for money:

Buy and enjoy!!

Problems to be aware of when buying

The purpose of this article is to point out any problem owners of the Yamaha FJ1100 & 1200 might encounter during their ownership or in purchasing a Yamaha used FJ.

The standard FJ can travel well over 100,000 miles without any major problems so long as it has been serviced regularly in accordance with the Yamaha servicing schedule i.e. 8,000 miles for a Major and at 16k for the linkages bearings.
All in all it is a very durable, versatile and strong motorcycle, especially the engine.

Engine Problems;
Vibration;
The FJ1100 standard exhaust down pipes had double-walls and the inner pipes may loosen due to engine vibration. This may sound like serious engine damage but simply replacing with second hand FJ1200 down pipes, that are S/S single skinned, will cure the problem.
The CV carbs have diaphragms on the slides that must be sealed to produce uniform uplift. These commonly wear and the resulting pin holes, make the engine run very uneven. The result is excessive vibration from 3,000 revs and the only answer is to replace the set of four. Yamaha want over £90 each but the club offers specially manufactured exchange diaphragms for £136 a set.
The engine may often have a “ticking” sound, mainly on the left hand side of the motor. It sounds like the valves should be adjusted and it may come and go in short intervals. The cause is probably the camshafts end float but please do check the valve clearances annually and if adjusted correctly, this sound will not cause any damage.
Starter chain rattle;
Commonly mistaken for cam chain rattle (cam chains last well over 100k) is a rattle from the engine as you pull away under low revs or when idling if the engine is cold or out of balance. The noise is the starter chain, it’s a massive chain with no tensioner, this will not cause any problems, it simply annoying and very difficult to replace.
Starter clutch slip;
Another problem is on pressing the starter button the motor doesn’t turn over and all you hear is a noise from within the engine. This is the starter clutch letting slip and not engaging the drive to the crank (made worse on very cold morning start ups due to the extra friction). The fault can occur if you have used fully synthetic engine oil (FJ is designed to run on base oil) or the rollers have worn within the starter clutch. The only answer is replacing the unit, not easy as it’s on top of the gearbox so requires the splitting of the crankcases.
Dropping out of gear;
One frequent fault years ago, on the FJ1100 and early 1TX FJ1200 , was the dropping out of second gear. Check this out on a test drive by loading the second gear a bit more than usual... It should remain in its position and not slip out. Normally this fault was found when the bikes were new so by now it’s very unlikely you will find an FJ with any gearbox problems. I did 180,000 miles on my 1TX from new and never had a problem.

Alternator/ Voltage Regulator Another annoying issue with the early FJ’s is that the stock voltage regulator puts out too much power. The result is shortened battery life accompanied by a tendency for the battery to boil dry. The best solution is simply replacing the alternator with a second hand item, remember an alternator from the XJR range will fit and be newer.
Recently a new solution is to fit a sealed battery in place of the early (84-90) lead acid battery. These MF batteries are now available. The 91-95 models came with MF type as standard.
Also the FJ1100 alternator is only held on with two bolts (FJ12 has three), the problem is made worse by the fact that the lower bolt falls out, so it’s worth checking.

Tail Light Failure;
The FJ has an annoying tendency to eat tail light bulbs. The cure is simply, to put a rubber o-ring in place between the socket and the light fixture.
Simple, cheap and seemingly affective.

Starter button failing;
You press the starter button only to find the two red light illuminates and the engine won’t turn over. Fault lies with the blue and white earth wire lead from the switch gear to the starter solenoid. Solution is splice in a new wire direct between the two.

Clutch slave seal and unit.
If you find difficulty in selecting gears or an excessive clunk when dropping into first, this is the result of the seal losing the hydraulic pressure. First sign of a problem is paint missing from the oil filter housing as the hydraulic fluid leaks onto it and strips the paint off.
First option is simply replace the seal. If the problem returns in a short time then the answer is to replace the whole unit

Fuel pump;
From 1988 the FJ1200 was fitted with a fuel pump which can fail. The first signs is when you flick the engine onto ’RUN’, you can hear the pump prime for pressure. If you flick it again there should be no priming, if it does then the pump can’t build up the pressure and may be U/S, this will cause a problem if you let the tank run low. If you become stranded you can simply join the fuel lines together which allows it to run on gravity feed (bypassing the pump) and offers a ‘get you home’ solution.

Rear linkages;
As with any modern motorcycle the rear shock and swinging arm linkages need greasing, normally every 12,000 miles. If this is not done then it will fail and seize.
The FJ1100 has plastic bearings so will easily seize, this results in poor movement of the suspension. If you continue to ride in this state they will collapse, not a good thing at 150 mph on the Autobahn.
The FJ1200 has needle roller bearing and the first sign of failure is normally picked up at the MOT when they find excessive movement from the swing arm. My FJ1200 did over 100k miles on the OE bearing so regular greasing is the answer.

Chain and Sprockets;
The FJ takes the highest grade of chain on the planet; this is because of the massive torque the engine produces. The pitch is the same size as an RD400 so be warned of poor grade chains because if they snap they go off like a ‘Catherine Wheel’ and explode into the crankcases.

Fuel Gauge;
Due to the age these units wear and the spring losses its strength. The result is the needle bouncing all over the place. Best use your trip meter and watch out for the low fuel warning light which is very accurate and comes on when 4 litres is left in reserve.

Crossplys;
Yamaha designed the FJ to run on Crossply tyres, this means they have never been tested on Radials. Just because some manufactures produce radial tyres that are the same size as the FJ doesn’t’ make them good tyres. To but it in perspective, the rear rim is only 3 ½ inch in width, this is the size of a modern front rim designed for a 120 section tyre not the 150 that Yamaha list as correct.

Anti dive unit seize;
The FJ1100 and early 1TX model had Anti-Dive units fitted to the front forks. These seize and the result is a harsh front end at low speed. The units can be stripped and un-seized quite easily.

Oil filter housing cracking;
When replacing the oil filter the wire from the side stand gets trapped between the oil filter housing and the crankcases, if not noticed when tightening up it will result in the casing cracking.

FJ for Sale

All these bikes are at the clubs Workshop, Cromhall GL12 8AR. Please contact Doc (Phil) on 01454 299325 or email doc@fjclub.co.uk if interested

CHEAP FJR

FJR1300 2001 'Y' Registered

For sale; An early FJR1300 that will make a good cheap winter runaround.
Just run in with 105,000 miles on the clock. This bike has benifitted from a 12000 mile club service and has a refurbished rear linkage arm, 2004 shock and new wheel bearings. The bike has been serviced by the club many times before but unfortunatley the service records went missing. The bike had a recent valve clearance job and also a replacement radiator.
It is cosmetically challenged with some damage to the upper fairing but runs and rides well.
Mot'd 10 months
No warranty given,sold as seen. £1500
Contact Doc or Ernie on 01454 299 325 or email doc@fjclub.co.uk

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Cut Away FJ Engine

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